Preshrinking Fabrics and Removing Finishes

Caring for fabric before it is sewn is as important as caring for the garment afterwards. We provide the know-how to prepare fabric before cutting out...

Problem: Fabric lengths can change in appearance and size when laundered, often causing garments to hang unevenly, seam lines to twist, and linings to show below hemlines.

Solution: Spend time preparing fabric before making a garment to avoid the disappointment of puckered seams, limp cloth and small linings. Wash, dry and press fabric lengths that you intend to make into washable garments, and steam dry-clean only fabrics before cutting out.

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The majority of fabrics can be machine washed on a delicate cycle. Washing a fabric supplies valuable information to a dressmaker, such as how easily it frays. If it unravels easily when washed, the choice of seam neatening needs to take this into account, and methods such as French seaming, turning raw edges under and stitching should be chosen. Fabric glue at vulnerable points - corners, curves and clipped v-necklines may also be appropriate.

Washing the fabric may also remove finishes that hide the true character of the cloth. For instance, a cotton fabric that appears quite firm and crisp may become very soft and limp when washed, possibly making it unsuitable for the intended style. The colour may bleed and fibres shed.

Also consider the proposed combinations of fabric to be used in one garment. They need to be compatible, not just in wash care, but also ironing temperature in order to smooth wrinkles or creases after laundering.

Pre shrinking tips

	Machine wash fabric before cutting, using the same wash programme as intended for the finished garment. Press cloth carefully, first with dry iron and then adding steam slowly as necessary.
	Machine wash delicate fabric in a pillowcase with the open edge tacked closed. Delicate and hand wash machine cycles treat fabrics gently using cool water, with minimal agitation.
	For dry clean only fabrics, press with a good steam iron. Alternatively, steam the fabric in the bathroom by hanging fabric lengths on plastic hangers over a steaming bath for at least an hour.
	Steam delicate silks and all wool fabrics by holding steam iron approximately 13mm (1/2") above the fabric surface.
	Lace, trims, tapes; all notions should be pre shrunk to prevent puckering. Small items can be put in a pillowcase and pre shrunk at the same time as fabric length.
	Velour and stretch terry may continue to shrink after the first wash and dry so purchase at least 25ch (1/4yard) extra metreage and wash/dry twice before cutting into the fabric.
	Interfacings made from fibres such as cotton and nylon/viscose mixtures must also be pre shrunk. Fold cut lengths of interfacing to a manageable size and submerge in hand-hot water for ten minutes. Remove and place onto a towel and roll to absorb the moisture, and then air dry over a drying rack.

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Jersey fabric - multiply this much shrinkage by 10 and 1 metre of fabric will shrink 2.5cm (1") in width and length.

Lining and wool crepe -also shrinks as well as fraying. Use French seaming or neatened raw edges to secure seam edges.

Silk Dupion - didn't shrink as much in the length, but frayed quite badly so also needs careful seam neatening.

The wash test

We do not always know what the fibre content of fabric is, so to determine if a cloth will shrink or change character after washing prepare a wash test sample.

	Cut two 10 cm (4") swatches of fabric on straight of grain.
	Wash and iron one of the test sample pieces, using the same wash programme as you intend to use for the finished garment. Press.
	If using a machine dryer use a low heat and remove fabric when it is still damp. Dry press from the wrong side to flatten texture and remove wrinkles.
	Test iron temperature, gradually increasing temperature and add steam if required.
	Pin the unlaundered fabric sample to the washed piece to check size and finish. Note shrinkage of washed piece. (On our samples, there was about 5mm (1/4") shrinkage in length and width, which when multiplied by 10, equals approximately 2.5cm (1") shrinkage on a metre.)
	Pre-wash remainder of fabric using the same wash programme and pressing technique. Testing small swatches of fabric will confirm the most appropriate laundering methods, the correct ironing temperature and often improves the fabric texture and draping qualities. The most important reason for preparing fabric lengths in your garment will remain the same size after washing.