 | Select fusible interfacing by weight of fashion fabric, the amount
of structure the style of garment requires and consider the way the garment will be
cleaned.
|
| Interfacing is an inner layer to support areas of the garment and
the weight and drape must be compatible with the fashion fabric, select the same weight or
lighter.
|
| Fold fabric after test fusing. If a sharp fold forms a crease in
the fashion fabric, try a lighter interfacing. Fabric fused with interfacing needs to be
flexible supple and recover from creases.
|
| The ironing board needs to be in the correct position if too high,
you cannot apply enough pressure. Some domestic presses do not have enough pressure to
fuse manufacturers interfacings.
|
| When fusing garment pieces begin pressing in the centre of each
piece and overlap the area you previously pressed.
|
| Heavier fabric and fusible interfacing may take a little longer
than 10 seconds to fuse.
|
| Always remember if fabric has movement choose an interfacing with
stretch to avoid separation and bubbling.
|
| Choose the most appropriate colour interfacing as this may change
fashion fabric colour. A variety of colours are available white, cream, grey beige, black
charcoal and skin tone.
|
| Consider the density of cloth a soft, light interfacing fused all
over can give depth of colour so that construction seams and inside details are not
visible improving the finished appearance.
|
| Interfacing the top layer of garment fabric for example an upper
collar or an outer cuff of a blouse, to prevent the seam allowances shadowing on the right
side.
|
| If your fabric is soft or loosely woven to prevent
the movement during cutting block fuse and cut the pattern section after fusing.
 If fusing afterwards check the grain has not been distorted by placing
pattern over garment piece, realign take away pattern and fuse interfacing into position.
|
| To apply fusible interfacing to area’s such as pockets and
hemlines fuse over a tailors ham, this produces curves that follow body shape.
|
| Patch pockets that are interfaced with fusibles keep the shape the
fabric is less likely to distort and stretch.
|
| Seam allowances on heavy fusible interfacings can be cut off
before fusing to reduce bulk, this is not necessary on fine fusibles.
|
| Small pieces of woven fusible interfacings can be used to
stabilise weak areas for example top of skirt vent opening. To strength and support pocket
areas.
|
| Woven fusible interfacing cut into strips and fused to the garment
can be used for stabilising roll lines of jackets, or to prevent V-neck lines from
stretching.
|
| Fusible interfacings provide a firm surface to top stitch, it will
help eliminate puckers or drags caused by the movement of layers of fabric.
|
Silk organza pressing cloths and all
fusibles listed in this article
can be purchased mail order from Gill Arnold.
If you are interested in updating your knowledge on new fabrics interlinings and
interfacings join Gill Arnold on her Inside Secrets course. For advise and hands on
guidance with pressing fusibles a Professional Pressing course is also available. For the
full range of Couture Dressmaking courses please send a S.A.E for programme and
interfacing details to Gill Arnold, 68 Falstaff Road, Solihull, West Midlands, B90 2AQ
Tel: 0121 608 1414
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